Argentine cuts of meat: a gourmet traveller's guide

When the smoke from the grill starts to spread through the streets of Buenos Aires, the scene transforms completely. It is not just the aroma; it is a statement of intent, as this city moves to the rhythm of meat, with a naturalness that surprises anyone who comes to visit. 

For the traveller stepping into the city for the first time, the choices can be overwhelming. On every corner there is a restaurant or food cart that, just by looking at it, whets your appetite, and the asado is experienced almost like a religion.

That is why understanding the different cuts is not a mere whim, because when you know exactly what to ask for, where to get it and what the cooking time should be, your casual dinner is transformed into a memorable experience. So pay attention and stick with this guide, which looks at the essence of the local grill, where knowing how to eat is an art learnt in the heat of the coals.

The four cuts that make the difference

The tradition of the Argentine asado was born in the countryside, around makeshift campfires lit by the gauchos. Over time, that rural practice migrated to the neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires and became more sophisticated. Today, restaurants in Palermo, Recoleta or Puerto Madero keep that essence intact with grass-fed animals, a pure wood fire and a patience in front of the embers that is non-negotiable.

All this evolution is noticeable in the refinement of the execution; no longer is “whatever is available” thrown onto the grill, but rather Angus and Hereford breed specimens with certified traceability are now meticulously chosen. Dry-ageing techniques are applied, which previously happened by accident.

The good thing is that all this technique hasn't killed the soul of the barbecue; on the contrary, it has turned arguing over whether the meat is rare, juicy or well done into a national sport at any gathering with family and friends.

And although the country exports more than 600,000 tonnes of meat a year, eating it right here is what makes it special, as it's not just about eating; here the asado is a ritual bordering on the sacred, whether in a home's back garden or in trendy restaurants.

Sirloin steak: the cut that never fails

For many, the sirloin steak is the quintessential ambassador of the Argentine barbecue. It comes from the outer part of the beef striploin and features a generous layer of external fat which, upon contact with the heat, gives it that unmistakable flavour and texture. Its ideal degree of doneness is juicy, with a pink centre and a well-browned crust.

At the Don Julio grill, it is available in two cuts – both wide and narrow – and both pieces undergo a dry-maturing process of up to 28 days in climate-controlled chambers. During cooking, the V-shaped grill prevents fat from dripping onto the embers and spoiling the flavour.

The result is a steak with clean-tasting meat, not overly smoky, and with a tenderness that makes it easy to cut. From my point of view, it is the ideal choice for those visiting Buenos Aires for the first time who do not want to get their meal wrong. 

Rib-eye steak: the classic of classics

It could be said that the ‘ojo de bife’ is the equivalent of the American rib-eye. This cut is taken from the centre of the sirloin, and is characterised by that marbling of intramuscular fat which melts slowly during cooking, giving it a tenderness that other cuts cannot match. It is a generous and very impressive cut, which works just as well for sharing as it does for a single diner with an insatiable appetite.

When you visit the Cabaña Las Lilas grill, they prepare it for you using prime Angus beef and serve it with their distinctive cow-shaped pin, which indicates the level of doneness you’ve chosen. When you cut into it, the magic happens: the fat melts the moment it touches your palate, without leaving that oily sensation. This is one of those cuts that calls for a good glass of Malbec.

Tripe: a favourite amongst connoisseurs

Tripe is a flat, very fibrous cut taken from the beef diaphragm, yet it happens to be a favourite amongst those who know their meat inside out. At La Cabrera, this dish arrives at the table flanked by a host of sauces and small casserole dishes that complement it without stealing the limelight from the star of the show.

But let’s give a quick tip here: if it’s your first time and you want to tackle this barbecue like a true local, you should ask for it cooked ‘medium’. If it’s overcooked, it’ll go as tough as a shoe sole, so trust the master barbecue chef’s instinct – it never fails.

And the secret to enjoying it to the full is to always cut it against the grain, into slices no thicker than your finger. So don’t forget: a well-cooked skirt steak is a dish that needs no extra sauces; its intense flavour, with a hint of sweetness, speaks for itself.

Void: the cut that asks for time

Although it lacks the glamour of the bife de chorizo or the popularity of the ojo de bife, the vacío is one of the cuts that defines the Argentine barbecue with equal authority. 

This cut is located in the lower part of the rib, is long and flat in shape, and has an outer membrane that must certainly be left intact. It is cooked over a low heat, with the membrane facing downwards, which allows it to develop a texture so tender that it melts in the mouth.

At the Fervor restaurant (Recoleta), they’ve named it “vacío del fino” and serve it cooked to a juicy medium, making the most of the thinnest part of the cut. 

It’s no secret that this is a dish that requires patience, as on a traditional grill it can take at least an hour or a little longer over the embers on a low heat, soaking up that unmistakable flavour of the countryside and wood. So go on and give it a go – you won’t regret it!

Where to try them in CABA and AMBA

The city has a wide array of steakhouses suitable for all budgets; but let's be honest, not all of them treat meat with the same rigor. For a traveller with a discerning palate, who is looking for consistent quality, the options are reduced. So here are the steakhouses that are currently the most engaging.

Don Julio, Palermo

Founded in 1999, Don Julio is the true benchmark of the Argentine grill. It holds a Michelin star (traditional) and a green one for its commitment to sustainability, as well as an enviable wine cellar housing some vintages over half a century old. Under the direction of executive chef Guido Tassi, they work exclusively with pasture-reared steer beef and a menu that adapts to the seasons.

Its distinctive V-shaped irons are a time-honoured feature that makes all the difference to the flavour. Thanks to these and other details, booking in advance is a must, but in the end you’ll be rewarded with excellent service and a product that will delight you and leave you wanting to come back.

La Cabrera, Palermo

This steakhouse opened on José Antonio Cabrera Avenue in 2002 and has since become a classic, without losing an ounce of its freshness. Its creator, chef Gastón Riveira, devised a menu that successfully blends tradition with innovation, standing out for its Argentine Wagyu and its unmistakable array of side dishes that vary with the seasons.

The atmosphere in the dining room has that rustic elegance of weathered wood and soft lighting that makes you want to stay a while. The signature dish is the skirt steak, and one bite reveals the mastery with which it’s grilled over the embers. So, if you’re looking for a grill with character, this place certainly has it.

Las Lilas Cottage, Puerto Madero

Open since 1995, this steakhouse has become a local institution. It specialises in heavy Angus young bulls and has a traceability system in place for diners to consult. 

The star attraction here is the ribeye steak, presented on an impressive, generously portioned plate and crowned with the now-famous cow-shaped pin that indicates the cut’s level of doneness.

To be perfectly honest, dining with a view of the river adds a special touch, making it the perfect place to round off the day whether you’re visiting as a tourist or having a business dinner. You’ll find that the service meets the standards of the finest dining establishments, but with the warmth of a neighbourhood restaurant.

Corte Comedor, Belgrano

The Corte Comedor restaurant is one of the few that also guarantees the traceability of its cuts, but under its own name. Here, you can find out the breed, origin and diet of the animal you are about to taste. Although this approach may sound rather modern, the charcoal-grilled dishes retain their traditional elements.

The dishes are served on handcrafted ceramic plates, and the décor combines an industrial style with warm touches. It is the ideal destination for those who are already familiar with the classic dishes and are looking to explore their flavours and presentation in greater depth. 

Parrilla Peña, San Nicolás

Since 1983, this little eatery has been the very epitome of a traditional grill, with no modern twists or extravagant innovations. You won’t find a Michelin star to back it up here, but its ribeye steak is, for many, one of the best in the city. 

The atmosphere has a nostalgic feel, with its marble details, dark wood and professional waiters who know the cuts by heart. The truth is, this is the place to head to when you just want an excellent asado in a genuine, unpretentious setting.

Fogón Asado, Palermo

El Fogón Asado transforms the art of charcoal grilling into a nine-course dining experience, complete with wine pairing. It is the perfect choice for those who wish to explore Argentine meat culture.

Each stage of the tour covers everything from offal to the main cuts, all under the guidance and expertise of the master grill chef, who explains everything in a very friendly manner. 

As for the venue, it’s a more intimate setting, with just a few tables and a bar that places you right in front of the embers. You don’t come here for a rushed dinner; you have to sit down, listen and let the fire do its work.

How to order like a local

• Ask for your meat to be juicy or medium. The term “well done” here is a mistake that comes at a high price in terms of loss of texture and flavour.
• You must resist the temptation to douse your plate in sauce as soon as it arrives at the table. Take the time to take your first bite of the meat on its own; only then will you be able to appreciate the technique and skill with which it has been prepared.
• Order the offal as a starter and not as a main course. Pay attention to the sweetbreads (mainly the heart sweetbread); if they arrive whole, with a really crisp crust and a creamy interior, the grill master is top-notch.
• Opt for the signature dishes. That means, for example, if you are at La Cabrera, order the skirt steak; even though it is not the most expensive option on the menu, it encapsulates the flavour of the city. At Don Julio, the bife de chorizo is the way to go in both its versions (ribeye and sirloin) so that you can compare the balance between fat and muscle.

• They say around here that patience is a virtue, so don't rush the timing of the barbecue, because, for the reasons stated for each type of meat, this is non-negotiable.
• Order sharing cuts, such as flank steak, as an 800-gram portion can easily feed two people, and this dish also tastes better with a good chat along the way.

Tips for setting up the perfect barbecue

• To make a successful barbecue with premium quality, you can buy your cuts at Don Julio's butchery and Corte Comedor's, as they sell the same meat they serve in their restaurants.
• Charcoal is something we always use, but firewood is what separates a decent barbecue from a truly memorable one. In fact, white quebracho is the standard for the best grills, because it generates excellent embers and also provides a very subtle and clean smoke that does not overpower the flavour of the beef.
• Cook the sirloin steak over a high heat, two minutes per side, and leave it to rest for five minutes before carving.
• Sirloin steak and ribeye require strong embers to achieve a good exterior sear. You just need to pay special attention to the ribeye, as its abundant intramuscular fat can cause some quick flare-ups.
• Cooking skirt steak requires a quicker cooking time over a high heat. And when serving it, the secret to avoiding too much chewing is to slice it across the grain.
• The final touch for a perfect piece of meat is that, once removed from the heat, you let it rest for about five minutes before cutting it. This allows the juices to redistribute and guarantees a much more delicious bite.

Questions every gourmet traveller asks themselves

Which Argentine cut of beef is best for a first-timer?

Without a doubt, it is the sirloin steak, as it is tender, has an excellent flavour and doesn't need any fuss when served.

How much does a premium steakhouse cost in Buenos Aires?

At places such as Don Julio or Cabaña Las Lilas, the price per person is around $90,000 pesos, excluding wine. However, at steakhouses such as República del Fuego, which has a Bib Gourmand award, they offer a very good dining experience at half the price.

What is dry aging and why is it so important?

It is the process of preserving meat by keeping it in refrigerated chambers with controlled temperatures for days or weeks. Its purpose is to evaporate moisture from the meat in order to concentrate the flavours and the natural enzymes that tenderise the tissue.

Can you ask for well-done meat at an Argentine steakhouse?

Of course you can, but it is not recommended, as Argentine beef is characterised by having less intramuscular fat, so if it is overcooked, it dries out and loses its tenderness.

What are achuras and are they worth it?

These are the offal and what are known as ‘menudencias’ – that is, sweetbreads, tripe, kidney, chorizo and black pudding. These cuts of beef are well worth trying if the grill restaurant has a good reputation for preparing them. The sweetbreads, in particular, are an indicator of the quality of the establishment. If they’re done well, the rest of the menu is sure to be up to scratch.

Useful links

• Don Julio www.parrilladonjulio.com.ar
• La Cabrera: www.lacabrera.com.ar
• Cabaña Las Lilas: www.cabanalaslilas.com
• Michelin Guide Buenos Aires: www.guide.michelin.com/en/ar/autonomous-city-of-buenos-aires
• Fogón Asado www.fogonasado.com